water wave dispesion relations. goal: finding
for
.
.
. Variables:
. The number of
's is 6-3=3.
,
,
. Then
so
.
- specialize to surface waves: hk
1, then
. Solution =
sum of short and long surface wave solutions =
- specialize to long surface waves, then
. then
. (surface gravity
waves
10cm) Calculation yields
. - specialize to short surface waves (gravity drops out)
Calculation
yields
, so
- specialize to shallow water waves:
and long waves, so
then
.
By calculation, you get
Examples:
source psfile jl@crush.caltech.edu index
shallow_water_wave
deep_water_wave