The solution: Some recipes call for soaking cabbage in ice water to make it crisp and plump. We found, however, that the cabbage quickly loses its acquired water leaving an even larger puddle of water to dilute the dressing. Quite unlike the ice-water cabbage, salted cabbage shreds lost most of its liquid while sitting in the salt, leaving the cabbage pickle-crisp. In addition to having less water in it, the cabbage took on more of the dressing's flavors, and unlike stiff, icy shreds, this limp cabbage was also easier to eat. The salting process does leave the cabbage a bit too salty, but a quick rinse washes away the excess salt. After rinsing, just pat it dry with paper towels and refrigerate it until ready to dress. Having figured out how to keep the cabbage from watering down the dressing, we were ready to tackle the dressing's acidity problem. After a number of failed experiments, we decided to give low-acidity rice wine vinegar a try. We drizzled a bit of rice vinegar over the mayonnaise-tossed cabbage and found its mild acidity perfect for coleslaw.

For good measure: If the cole slaw is to be eaten immmediately, rinse it quickly in ice water rather than tap water, then pat it dry. Coleslaw, at least the creamy style, should be served cold.

SWEET-AND-SOUR COLESLAW

Serves 4

Since rice wine vinegar tends to mellow, you may want to use cider vinegar if making the slaw a day ahead. The presence of the sugar in this recipe keeps you from having to rinse off salt from the cabbage, as is ordinarily the case.

1 pound (about 1/2 medium head) red or green cabbage, shredded fine or chopped (6 cups)
1 large carrot, peeled and grated
1/2 cup sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt or 1 teaspoon table salt
1/4 teaspoon celery seeds
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
Ground black pepper

1. Toss cabbage and carrots with sugar, salt, and celery seeds in colander set over medium bowl. Let stand until cabbage wilts, at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours.

2. Pour draining liquid from bowl; rinse bowl and dry. Dump wilted cabbage and carrots from colander into bowl.

3. Add oil and vinegar; toss to coat. Season with pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. (Can be refrigerated 5 days.)

CURRIED COLESLAW WITH APPLES AND RAISINS

Serves 6

Follow recipe for Sweet-and-Sour Coleslaw, adding 1 teaspoon curry powder, 1 medium apple, peeled and cut into small dice, and 1/4 cup raisins (optional) with oil and vinegar.

CREAMY COLESLAW

Serves 4

If you like caraway or celery seed in your coleslaw, you can add one-quarter teaspoon of either with the mayonnaise and vinegar. You can shred, salt, rinse, and pat the cabbage dry a day ahead, but dress it close to serving time.

1 pound (about 1/2 medium head) red or green cabbage, shredded fine or chopped (6 cups)
1 large carrot, peeled and grated
2 teaspoons kosher salt or 1 teaspoon table salt
1/2 small onion, minced
1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
Ground black pepper

1. Toss cabbage and carrots with salt in colander set over medium bowl. Let stand until cabbage wilts, at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours.

2. Dump wilted cabbage and carrots into the bowl. Rinse thoroughly in cold water (ice water if serving slaw immediately). Pour vegetables back into colander, pressing, but not squeezing on them to drain. Pat dry with paper towels. (Can be stored in a zipper-lock bag and refrigerated overnight.)

3. Pour cabbage and carrots back again into bowl. Add onions, mayonnaise, and vinegar; toss to coat. Season with pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.