The solution: We found out that artichokes need very little advance preparation. In fact, the only preparation they need consists of two slices -- one to trim the stem and one to slice off the top quarter. It turns out the leaves' pointy tips soften when cooked. After many hours of slicing, snipping, tying, boiling, microwaving, braising, and steaming, we found that artichokes are best when cooked using the easiest method -- steaming. Steaming is an easy method for cooking any size artichoke, from whole, giant globes to tiny babies as well as trimmed hearts. We put whole artichokes, stem end up, in about an inch of water in a heavy-gauge nonreactive pot with a tight-fitting lid. A steaming rack was useful but not necessary. We should add that braising, which combines browning and simmering, also produces very flavorful artichokes. However, this method involves more work than steaming, since you first have to saute the artichokes, then deglaze the pan, then simmer the artichokes in liquid.

For good measure: To test for doneness, pull away outer leaves. If artichokes are cooked, they should pull away without much effort. Inner leaves are easy to remove even before the thistle is thoroughly cooked, but you can taste-test these leaves for added assurance that the artichokes are well cooked. While this testing method is foolproof, it can be difficult to execute with steaming hot artichokes. Fortunately, there is another trustworthy method: Insert a toothpick or skewer into the stem end. If it is easy to insert, the artichoke should be tender.

MASTER RECIPE FOR STEAMED WHOLE ARTICHOKES

Serves 4

A steaming apparatus, such as a collapsible basket or bamboo rack, is helpful but not necessary for whole artichokes. Simply make use of the artichoke’s tips and trimmings as a rack. Artichokes can be served warm with melted butter or at room temperature with one of the vinaigrettes that follow.

4 large or 12 baby artichokes, rinsed and trimmed
Salt

1. Place steaming apparatus (optional) in large nonreactive pot with tight-fitting lid; bring 1 inch of water to boil.

2. Place artichokes, stem end up, in steaming apparatus or in water. Sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt; cover and steam over medium-high heat until tender, about 40 minutes for large whole artichokes, about 25 minutes for babies; outer leaves should pull away easily and the stem end should be thoroughly tender.

3. Gently remove artichokes with tongs. Serve immediately or cool, stem end up, to room temperature. (Can be covered and refrigerated overnight; bring to room temperature before serving.)

MASTER RECIPE FOR STEAMED ARTICHOKE HEARTS

Serves 4

Toss warm artichoke hearts with butter and lemon juice and serve as a vegetable. Or, cool hearts to room temperature and drizzle with one of the vinaigrettes that follow; serve as an antipasto or salad.

4 large or 12 baby artichokes, rinsed and trimmed to the heart (see "How to Get to the Heart of Artichokes" link, below), large hearts halved, dechoked, and, if desired, quartered; baby hearts left whole or halved
Salt

1. Place steaming apparatus in large nonreactive pot with tight-fitting lid; bring 1 inch of water to boil.

2. Place artichoke hearts in steaming apparatus. Sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt; cover and steam over medium-high heat until tender, about 30 minutes for large hearts (20 minutes, if halved; 10 minutes, if quartered), and about 15 minutes for baby hearts (10 minutes, if halved).

3. Carefully lift steaming apparatus from pot. Use tongs to gently remove hearts. Serve hearts immediately or cool to room temperature. (Can be covered and refrigerated overnight; bring to room temperature before serving.)

LEMON-CHIVE VINAIGRETTE

Serves 4

Other fresh herbs, such as dill or parsley, can be substituted for the chives in this citrus sauce.

4 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt
2/3 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives

Whisk lemon juice and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a small nonreactive bowl. Gradually whisk in oil so that mixture emulsifies. Just before serving, stir in chives. Serve in small individual bowls to accompany steamed artichokes.

BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE

Serves 4

This vinaigrette can be served as a dipping sauce for large whole artichokes. Artichoke hearts can be tossed in some of the vinaigrette and served on Bibb lettuce with a complementary salad of grated carrots and thin-sliced scallions; drizzle some of the vinaigrette over the carrot salad and the lettuce.

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons sherry or wine vinegar
Salt and ground black pepper
2/3 cup olive oil

Whisk first 2 ingredients with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in a small bowl. Gradually whisk in oil, so that vinaigrette emulsifies. Serve.

SPAGHETTI WITH ARTICHOKE-LOBSTER SAUCE

Serves 6

This pasta dish makes an especially nice first course. If you prefer, you can substitute for the lobster one pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into one-by-one-and-one-half-inch pieces, seasoned with salt and pepper and quickly sautéed.

2 1 1/2 pound lobsters, or 2 cups cooked crabmeat
1 pound spaghetti
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper
6 tablespoons juice from 2 lemons
16 baby artichoke hearts, halved and steamed (see Master Recipe for Steamed Artichoke Hearts)
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

1. Bring 1 inch water to boil in large pot. Add lobsters; steam until done, 10 to 12 minutes. Cool slightly, then remove tail and claw meat. Cut lobster meat into bite-size pieces and set aside.

2. Bring 1 gallon of water to boil in a large pot. Add 1 tablespoon salt and the spaghetti; boil until al dente.

3. Meanwhile whisk olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and the lemon juice in a medium bowl.

4. Drain pasta, but do not shake dry; return to pot. Add dressing; toss to coat. Add lobster, artichoke, and parsley; toss carefully. Serve immediately.

BRAISED ARTICHOKES WITH TOMATOES AND GARLICBRAISED ARTICHOKES WITH TOMATOES AND GARLIC

Serves 4 as an appetizer or side dish

I found an enamel-coated cast iron pot works best for sealing in the moisture and ensuring even heat distribution.

2 tablespoons olive oil
12 baby artichoke hearts, halved, or 4 large hearts, halved, dechoked, and quartered
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 small onion, minced
1/3 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup water
1 can (16 ounces) plum tomatoes, juice drained and reserved for another use; tomatoes halved and seeded
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
Salt
2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley

1. Heat oil in large, heavy-gauge nonreactive soup kettle. Add artichokes and sauté over medium heat, stirring frequently, until light brown, about 7 minutes.

2. Add garlic and onion; sauté until softened, about 4 minutes. Stir in white wine; simmer until reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Add water, tomatoes, thyme, and salt to taste. Cover and cook over low heat until artichokes are tender, about 25 minutes.

3. Uncover and simmer until juices thicken, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve hot or at room temperature.

May, 1994
Original article and recipes by Pamela Parseghian

 
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