Popovers Perfected

To get twice as many high-popping popovers from the same amount of batter, use a preheated twelve-hole muffin tin.

The challenge: Popovers seem like magic. Made from a simple, thin batter of eggs, flour, milk, and melted butter, they pop up in the oven to triple their original height with no help from leavening of any sort. This amazing feat is the result of two factors. A hot oven and a pan that is deeper than it is wide cause the steam released during baking to make a giant bubble which is contained by a structure created by the starches and proteins in the batter. We set out to discover how to make the ideal popover: one that pops up high with a thin, crusty exterior and a relatively dry interior with threads of custardy dough. Surprisingly, in a recipe so simple, this meant testing a large number of variations of both ingredients and technique.

The solution: I found that two extra-large eggs provided enough fat and protein to pop reliably and well, but without giving an overwhelming eggy flavor. Baking at 450 degrees for twenty minutes created maximum height, and then lowering the temperature to 350 for another fifteen to twenty minutes ensured that the inside had the right texture. Most surprising, we found that popovers cooked in muffin tins (versus popover pans and deep porcelain ramekins) popped twice as much as as the other popovers and were lighter.

THE BEST POPOVERS

Makes 1 dozen in a muffin tin

This batter can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to four days. If you’re making it ahead, bring it to room temperature and stir well before pouring it into a hot pan.

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup whole milk
2 extra-large eggs
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted, plus additional melted butter, vegetable oil, or vegetable oil sprayto grease the pan

1. Adjust oven rack to low position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Place empty muffin or popover tin in oven to heat while making batter.

2. Whisk flour and salt together in medium bowl. In a 2-cup Pyrex measuring cup, lightly whisk together milk, eggs, and butter. Pour wet ingredients into dry ingredients all at once; whisk until just blended. (Batter can be made ahead and refrigerated in sealed container for up to four days.) Pour batter into measuring cup for easy pouring.

3. Remove hot pan from oven; lightly grease interior of each cup and pan rim.

4. Fill each cup half full with batter. Bake without opening oven door for 20 minutes. Lower heat to 350 degrees and continue to bake until popovers are rich brown in color, 15 to 20 minutes longer. Serve warm. (Popovers can be frozen in airtight plastic bags, and warmed in 325-degree oven until heated through, 5 to 10 minutes.)

November, 1994
Original article and recipes by Deborah Krasner

SEE ALSO:

Popover Pan