Savory Dried Fruit Compotes
Dried fruits, herbs, and spices transform a dessert into an unusual but easy-to-make savory accompaniment.
Mention fruit compote and most people think of a sort of sweet stew of fresh fruit intended for dessert, either by itself or spooned over ice cream. This is certainly one type of fruit compote, but there are many others as well. Basically, a compote refers to fresh or dried fruit that has been slowly cooked in a sugar syrup; the syrup may also contain liquor or liqueur along with spices or herbs. Many of the compote recipes that we came across suggested allowing them to sit for at least a week before eating them, so that the flavors could meld. We found that, with the compotes based on dried peaches, raisins, and dried apricots, we preferred the flavor of the mixture when eaten within the first two or three days. The compote of dried pears with fresh oranges and lemons, on the other hand, definitely benefited from sitting at least a week after cooking. This flavor-melding period allowed the citrus peels to soften and their sharp tastes to mellow.

DRIED COMPOTE WITH MINT AND WHISKEY

Makes about 3 cups
This compote goes particularly well with lamb

2 1/2 cups dried peaches (about 14 ounces), cut into 1/4-inch strips
2 tablespoons honey
1 cup fresh mint leaves, minced
1/3 cup bourbon or rye whiskey

Bring peaches, honey, and 2 cups water to simmer in a medium-size, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered, stirring frequently, until peaches plump and liquid thickens to slightly thinner than applesauce, about 20 minutes. Stir in mint and whiskey; simmer until alcohol evaporates, 2 to 3 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Serve warm or at room temperature.

RAISIN COMPOTE WITH ROSEMARY AND THYME

Makes about 3 cups

Serve this herbed fruit compote in place of cranberry relish with roast turkey, chicken, or pork.

1 cup golden raisins (about 7 ounces)
1 cup dark raisins (about 7 ounces)
1 cup juice 3 to 4 oranges
1/4 cup juice from 3 to 4 oranges
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves
1 teaspoon minced fresh sage leaves
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
Salt and ground black pepper

Bring first six ingredients, along with 1 1/2 cups water, to simmer in a medium-size, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring frequently, until raisins plump, about 15 minutes. Add next four ingredients; simmer to blend flavors, about five minutes. Cool to room temperature, season to taste with salt and pepper, then refrigerate. Serve chilled.

DRIED APRICOT COMPOTE WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR AND JUNIPER BERRIES

Makes about 3 cups

2 1/2 cups dried apricots (about 14 ounces) cut into 1/4-inch strips
1/2 cup juniper berries, crushed
1/2 cup loose-packed brown sugar
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
Salt and ground black pepper

Bring first four ingredients, along with 2 1/4 cups water, to simmer in a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered, stirring often, until apricots plump and liquid thickens to slightly thinner than applesauce, about 20 minutes. Cool to room temperature and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

DRIED PEAR AND ORANGE COMPOTE WITH HONEY AND SAGE

Makes about 1 quart

Try this rather tart fruit compote with roast duck, quail, or other game. Make it ahead and let it sit for at least a week, covered and refrigerated, so that the flavors meld and the rinds soften.

1/2 cup honey
1 large navel orange, ends removed, fruit (including zest) sliced very thin
1/2 lemon, ends removed, fruit (including zest) sliced very thin
2 cups dried pears (about 12 ounces), cut into 1/4-inch strips
2 tablespoons minced fresh sage leaves
2 tablespoons Grand Marnier or other orange-flavored liqueur

Bring honey and 2 cups water to boil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, stirring frequently. Add orange, lemon, and pears; Reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered, stirring often, until pears plump, about 20 minutes. Stir in sage and liqueur; simmer to evaporate alcohol, 1 to 2 minutes. Cool, then refrigerate until citrus peels soften, about 1 week. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

January, 1995