The solution: We eliminated two popular methods—boiling the nuts in syrup and tossing them in butter—straight off. The former made the nuts sticky, and the latter dulled their flavor. A third method, coating the nuts with an egg white mixture, pretty much overwhelmed the nuts with a candylike coating. What finally worked was a light glaze made from very small amounts of liquid, sugar, and butter, which left the nuts just tacky enough to pick up a coating of dry spices.

For good measure: Kosher salt is an important ingredient. It adds crunch and has a clean flavor.

WARM-SPICED PECANS WITH RUM GLAZE

Makes about 2 cups

2 cups raw pecan halves (8 ounces)

Warm Spice Mix
2 tablespoons sugar
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice

Rum Glaze
1 tablespoon rum, preferably dark
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 teaspoon light or dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line rimmed cookie sheet with parchment paper and spread pecans in even layer; toast 4 minutes, rotate pan, and continue to toast until fragrant and color deepens slightly, about 4 minutes longer. Transfer cookie sheet with nuts to wire rack.
2. For the spice mix: While nuts are toasting, stir together sugar, salt, cinnamon, cloves, and allspice in medium bowl; set aside.
3. For the glaze: Bring rum, vanilla, brown sugar, and butter to boil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat, whisking constantly. Stir in toasted pecans and cook, stirring constantly with wooden spoon, until nuts are shiny and almost all liquid has evaporated, about 1½ minutes.
4. Transfer glazed pecans to bowl with spice mix; toss well to coat. Return glazed and spiced pecans to parchment-lined cookie sheet to cool (can be stored in an airtight container for up to 5 days).

MEXICAN-SPICED ALMONDS, PEANUTS, AND PUMPKIN SEEDS

Makes about 2 cups

1¼ cup sliced almonds (4½ ounces)
2/3 cup roasted unsalted shelled peanuts (3 ounces)
¼ cup raw pumpkin seeds (1 ounce)

Mexican Spice Mix
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
1/8 teaspoon garlic powder

Simple Glaze
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon light or dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line rimmed cookie sheet with parchment paper and spread almonds in even layer. Toast 4 minutes, rotate pan; add peanuts and pumpkin seeds, spreading in even layer. Continue to toast until fragrant and color deepens slightly, about 4 minutes longer. Transfer cookie sheet with nuts to wire rack.
2. For the spice mix: While nuts and seeds are toasting, stir together sugar, salt, cinnamon, cumin, coriander, cayenne, and garlic powder in medium bowl; set aside.
3. For the glaze: Bring water, brown sugar, and butter to boil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat, whisking constantly. Stir in toasted nuts and seeds and cook, stirring constantly with wooden spoon, until nuts are shiny and almost all liquid has evaporated, about 1½ minutes.
4. Transfer glazed nuts to bowl with spice mix; toss well to coat. Return glazed and spiced nuts to parchment-lined cookie sheet to cool (can be stored in an airtight container for up to 5 days).

INDIAN-SPICED CASHEWS AND PISTACHIOS WITH CURRANTS

Makes about 2 cups

1¼ cup raw cashews (6 ounces)
½ cup raw unsalted shelled pistachios (2 ounces)
2 tablespoons currants

Indian Spice Mix
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon curry powder
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground coriander

Simple Glaze
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon light or dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line rimmed cookie sheet with parchment paper and spread cashews in even layer; toast 4 minutes, rotate pan, and toast 4 minutes longer. Add pistachios, spreading in even layer; continue to toast until fragrant and color deepens slightly, about 2 minutes longer. Transfer cookie sheet with nuts to wire rack; add currants.
2. For the spice mix: While nuts are toasting, stir together sugar, salt, curry powder, cumin, and coriander in medium bowl; set aside.
3. For the glaze: Bring water, brown sugar, and butter to boil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat, whisking constantly. Stir in nut mix and cook, stirring constantly with wooden spoon, until nuts are shiny and almost all liquid has evaporated, about 1½ minutes.
4. Transfer glazed nuts and currants to bowl containing spice mix; toss well to coat. Return glazed and spiced nuts to parchment-lined cookie sheet to cool (can be stored in an airtight container for up to 5 days).