How to Make Rice Salad

For light, fluffy, separate rice that doesn’t turn sticky as it cools, toast it, then cook it with the “pasta” method. To avoid a mushy salad, spread the rice out to cool.

The challenge: The concept of making a rice salad seems quite simple. But the rice, that simple staple, poses more of a problem than you might expect. Long-grain rice normally isn’t good cold; it tends to turn hard, clumpy, and slightly crunchy. Short-grain rice holds up better as it cools, but it has a sticky heaviness about it that we didn’t want in a rice salad. What we did want was a salad with rice that was tender, fluffy, and light. What we now needed was a cooking method for long-grain rice that would preserve its fresh-from-the-pan characteristics once cooled.

The solution: The solutions to our problem resided in the techniques we used both to cook and then cool the rice. While many methods allowed us to cook up great rice, the quality inevitably deteriorated upon cooling. The one method that produced better results might be called the "abundant water" technique, in which rice is boiled in a large volume of water, just like pasta, until it its toothsome and cooked through but has not yet begun to fray. At this point, the water is simply strained out.
Understanding how rice cooks helps to explain why this unorthodox method of boiling rice works so well for rice salad. Starch granules, which are the primary component of rice, tend not to absorb water. As you heat rice in water, however, the energy from the rapidly moving water molecules begins to loosen the bonds between the starch molecules so that water can seep in. This in turn causes the starch molecules to swell, softening the rice but also making it more sticky, or "starchy." If you use the abundant water method for cooking long-grain rice, some of this starch leaches into the water, which is ultimately drained off. The result is a pot of long-grain rice with less concentrated starch. This is what allows the grains to cook up so remarkably light and separate and to maintain that consistency as they cool to room temperature.
Some assistance with cooling also helped. We found that spreading out the rice to cool on a baking sheet, which gives it a greater surface area, allows excess moisture to evaporate. Spreading out the rice to cool also prevents it from clumping, as it would if left to rest in a saucepan or bowl. An added bonus is that because the rice cools to room temperature in abut 10 minutes, salad assembly can be done quickly.

BOILED RICE FOR RICE SALAD
Makes about 6 cups cooked rice

Taste the rice as it nears the end of its cooking time; it should be cooked through and toothsome, but not crunchy. Be careful not to overcook the rice or the grains will “blow out” and fray. Aromatic basmati rice works well in any of the rice salads, but regular long-grain rice works fine, too.

1 1/2 cups long-grain or basmati rice
1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large stockpot. Meanwhile, heat medium skillet over medium heat until hot, about 3 minutes; add rice and toast, stirring frequently, until faintly fragrant and some grains turn opaque, about 5 minutes.
2. Add salt to boiling water and stir in toasted rice. Return to boil and cook, uncovered, until rice is tender but not soft, 8 to 10 minutes for long-grain rice or about 15 minutes for basmati. Meanwhile, line rimmed baking sheet with foil or parchment paper. Drain rice in large fine-mesh strainer or colander; spread on prepared baking sheet. Cool while preparing salad ingredients.

CURRIED RICE SALAD WITH CAULIFLOWER, MANGO, AND CASHEWS
Serves 6 to 8

2 tablespoons peanut oil
1/2 small head cauliflower, cut into small florets (about 2 cups)
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup currants
1 recipe Boiled Rice for Rice Salad
1/2 cup raw cashews, chopped and toasted in small dry skillet over medium heat until golden and fragrant, about 2 minutes
1 medium mango, peeled and diced fine
3 tablespoons minced chives
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

Heat oil in medium skillet over high heat until shimmering but not smoking. Add cauliflower, curry powder, and 1/2 teaspoon salt; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant and curry powder adheres to cauliflower, about 1 minute. Add currants and 1/4 cup water; reduce heat to medium-high and continue to cook until water evaporates and cauliflower is tender, about 3 minutes. Transfer cauliflower to large bowl; add rice, cashews, mango, chives, pepper, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt to bowl and toss thoroughly to combine. Let stand 20 minutes to blend flavors and serve.

RICE SALAD WITH ORANGES, OLIVES, AND ALMONDS
Serves 6 to 8

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small garlic clove, minced (about 1/2 teaspoon)
1/4 teaspoon grated zest plus 1 tablespoon juice from 1 small orange
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 recipe Boiled Rice for Rice Salad
1/3 cup coarsely chopped pitted green olives
2 medium oranges, peeled and cut into segments
1/3 cup slivered almonds, toasted in small dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant and golden, about 2 minutes
2 tablespoons fresh oregano, minced

Stir together oil, garlic, orange zest and juice, vinegar, salt, and pepper in small bowl. Combine rice, olives, oranges, almonds, and oregano in large bowl; drizzle oil mixture over and toss thoroughly to combine. Let stand 20 minutes to blend flavors and serve.

RICE SALAD WITH PINEAPPLE, JÍCAMA, AND PUMPKIN SEEDS
Serves 6 to 8

If you’re unable to find pumpkin seeds, substitute unsalted sunflower seeds.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium jalapeno chile, seeded and minced (about 1 tablespoon)
1/2 teaspoon grated zest plus 1 tablespoon juice from 1 lime
1 small garlic clove, minced (about 1/2 teaspoon)
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 recipe Boiled Rice for Rice Salad
1/2 small pineapple, peeled, cored, and diced medium (about 1 cup)
5 ounces jicama, peeled and diced medium (about 1 cup)
1/3 cup pumpkin seeds, toasted in small dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant and lightly browned, about 1 minute
2 medium scallions, white and green parts, sliced thin
3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro leaves

Stir together vegetable oil, jalapeno chile, lime zest and juice, garlic, honey, salt, and black pepper in small bowl. Combine rice, pineapple, jicama, pumpkin seeds, scallions, and cilantro; drizzle oil mixture over and toss thoroughly to combine. Let stand 20 minutes to blend flavors and serve.

RICE SALAD WITH CHERRY TOMATOES, PARMESAN, PEAS, AND HAM
Serves 6 to 8

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 small garlic clove, minced (about 1/2 teaspoon)
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 recipe Boiled Rice for Rice Salad
1/2 cup frozen peas, thawed
6 ounces cherry tomatoes, quartered and seeded (about 1 cup)
1 ounce thin-sliced cooked deli ham or prosciutto, chopped fine (about 1/4 cup)
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, shredded (about 1/4 cup)
1/4 cup shredded fresh basil leaves

Stir together oil, vinegar, garlic, salt, and pepper in small bowl. Combine rice, peas, tomatoes, ham, Parmesan, and basil in large bowl; drizzle oil mixture over and toss thoroughly to combine. Let stand 20 minutes to blend flavors and serve.

July, 2000
Original article and recipes by Maryellen Driscoll