The solution: The secret is to use greens that have hardy textures and assertive flavors. The crisp texture of greens such as escarole, radicchio, arugula, and watercress can withstand a dousing with warm dressing or the addition of a hot ingredient without becoming so wilted that they are no longer pleasurable. Meanwhile, their assertive flavors become pleasantly subdued, not overpowered,

For good measure: The combinations of greens in these recipes are interchangeable and can be mixed and matched to suit taste and availability. The total quantity of greens in each salad should be about nine cups, measured loosely packed after stemming.

ARUGULA AND ESCAROLE SALAD WITH BLUE CHEESE, FIGS, AND WARM PORT DRESSING

Serves 6

1/3 cup port
1/2 teaspoon sugar
4 ounces dried figs (6 large or 12 small), stems removed
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 medium shallots or 1/4 small red onion, minced (about 3 tablespoons)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 large bunches arugula, washed, dried, stems trimmed, and leaves torn into bite-size pieces (about 3 cups, loosely packed)
1 medium head escarole, washed, dried, and torn into bite-size pieces (about 6 cups, loosely packed)
1/4 pound blue cheese (preferably Roquefort or
Stilton), crumbled

1. Bring port, sugar, and figs to boil in medium saucepan over high heat. Cover pan, reduce heat to low, and simmer until figs are very soft but not mushy, about 15 minutes. Reserving liquid in pan, remove figs with slotted spoon and, when cool enough to handle, quarter and set them aside.

2. Whisk vinegar, shallots, salt, and pepper into port; gradually whisk in oil. Return figs to dressing and reheat over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until warm but not steaming.

3. Toss greens and warm dressing to coat in large mixing bowl. Divide dressed greens among 6 serving plates, sprinkle with a portion of blue cheese, and serve immediately.

ARUGULA AND RADICCHIO SALAD WITH WARM GOAT CHEESE AND OLIVE DRESSING

Serves 6

Goat cheese can be difficult to slice neatly. If you have trouble, try wiping the knife blade with a cold, damp kitchen towel before each slice.

3 tablespoons fine, unflavored dried bread crumbs
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves
2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary
1 small log (4 ounces) goat cheese, cut into 6 equal rounds
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus 1/3 cup
1 medium garlic clove, minced
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 cup oil-cured black olives, pitted and chopped fine
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
4 large bunches arugula, washed, dried, stems trimmed and leaves torn into bite-size pieces (about 6 1/2 cups, loosely packed)
1 medium head radicchio, washed, dried, and
leaves torn into bite-size pieces (about 2 1/2 cups, loosely packed)

1. Adjust oven rack to center position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Stir bread crumbs and 1 teaspoon each of the thyme and rosemary to combine in a shallow pie pan. Brush goat cheese rounds lightly with 1 tablespoon olive oil and gently press both sides and edges in bread crumb mixture to coat thoroughly with bread crumb mixture (can be done up to 1 hour before serving time and refrigerated on baking sheet until ready to bake).

2. Whisk garlic, vinegar, olives, remaining thyme and rosemary, salt, and pepper in small bowl; gradually whisk in remaining 1/3 cup olive oil; set aside.

3. Just before serving, bake breaded goat cheese rounds until warm throughout but not at all browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk dressing to re-blend and toss greens and dressing to coat in large mixing bowl. Divide dressed greens among 6 serving plates. Remove cheese rounds from oven; top each salad with one round and serve immediately.

RADICCHIO AND WATERCRESS SALAD WITH WARM FENNEL AND WALNUT DRESSING

Serves 6

1 large garlic clove, minced (about 1 1/2 teaspoons)
1 tablespoon juice from 1 small lemon
2 tablespoons sherry or white wine vinegar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus 1/3 cup
1 cup walnuts, chopped coarse
1 medium fennel bulb (about 10 ounces), stems, fronds, and base trimmed; bulb halved, cored, and sliced thin (about 2 cups)
2–3 anchovy fillets, minced (about 1 tablespoon)
3 large bunches watercress, washed, dried, and stemmed (about 6 1/2 cups, loosely packed)
1 medium head radicchio, washed, dried, and torn into bite-size pieces (about 2 1/2 cups, loosely packed)
1 small chunk (about 1 1/2 ounces) Parmesan cheese, shaved into thin strips with a vegetable peeler

1. Whisk garlic, lemon juice, vinegar, salt and pepper in small bowl; gradually whisk in 1/3 cup olive oil until dressing is smooth and emulsified; set aside.

2. Heat walnuts in remaining 1 tablespoon oil in medium skillet (preferably nonstick) over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly toasted and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add fennel and cook until it just begins to soften and turns a very light golden, about 3 minutes longer. Stir anchovy fillets into fennel mixture and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds longer. Whisk dressing to re-blend and, off heat, stir into fennel mixture to distribute evenly.

3. Toss greens and warm dressing mixture to coat in large mixing bowl. Divide dressed greens among 6 serving plates, sprinkle with a portion of shaved Parmesan, and serve immediately.