Hot Cocoa
Cook Dutch-process cocoa briefly with water before adding milk.
The challenge: After looking at more than 70 recipes, we learned that there are two distinct styles of hot, chocolate-flavored drinks. Most are referred to generally as hot chocolate, but real hot chocolate derives from melting grated chocolate, usually bittersweet, in milk or cream. Hot cocoa, on the other hand, is flavored with unsweetened cocoa powder and sugar in milk or cream.
When compared with hot cocoa, we found hot chocolate bland and one-dimensional. Cocoa powder has a stronger flavor because it contains a higher concentration of cocoa solids and less of the fat and additional ingredients than are found in prepared chocolate. It also has other advantages: it is designed to incorporate easily into liquids, it is a kitchen staple, and spooning it from a canister is much neater than grating chocolate. That said, though, we still had several questions to ask: What type and quantity of cocoa powder, sugar, and dairy taste best? Is the water used in many recipes really necessary? Should you cook the cocoa paste before adding the dairy?

The solution: In deciding on what type of cocoa to use we looked at natural- and Dutch-process cocoa. Our tasting panel preferred the hot cocoa made with Dutched cocoa, finding it superior in both flavor and color. (When Dutched, chocolate’s natural acidity is reduced by means of treatment with an alkaline solution.)
The amount of cocoa powder and sugar to use per cup of liquid was a thornier issue. One chocolate lover in the group preferred as much as three tablespoons of cocoa in his cup, but we were looking for something more balanced, more intense than chocolate milk, but not liquid candy. One and one-half tablespoons of cocoa powder sweetened with one tablespoon of sugar passed muster.
Many recipes recommend mixing cocoa powder and sugar with a little water before adding the milk, and we found this to be worthwhile. Premixing of the cocoa powder and sugar with milk produced a less flavorful drink. Because the milk fat in cream and milk has such a distinct flavor, it can mask other flavors. Water has the effect of releasing the cocoa powder’s fruit, chocolate, and coffee flavor nuances. We also discovered that heating the cocoa powder-sugar-water mixture for two minutes before adding milk also deepens the flavor.
Our choice of dairy turned out to be low-fat milk—largely because that’s what most people now seem to have in their refrigerator. Happily, the reduced fat content in 1 and 2 percent milk also allows for the greatest range of cocoa flavor. A small splash of half-and-half adds a pleasant richness.

MASTER RECIPE FOR HOT COCOA

Serves 4 in small mugs

If you want to increase or decrease this recipe for hot cocoa, the key ratio to remember is one and one-half tablespoons of cocoa and one heaping tablespoon of sugar per cup of liquid. If you have whole milk on hand rather than low-fat, go ahead and use it, omitting the half-and-half.

6 tablespoons Dutch-process cocoa, measured by dip-and-sweep
4 heaping tablespoons sugar
Small pinch salt
1 cup water
3 cups low-fat milk (1 or 2 percent)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 cup half-and-half

1. In heavy 2-quart saucepan, whisk together cocoa, sugar, salt, and water over low heat until smooth. Simmer, whisking continuously, for 2 minutes, making sure whisk gets into the edges of pan.
2. Add milk, increase heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally with whisk, until steam rises from surface and tiny bubbles form around edge, 12 to 15 minutes. Do not boil.
3. Add vanilla and half-and-half. For foamy cocoa, beat hot cocoa with hand mixer or transfer to blender and blend until foamy. Divide between four mugs, top with whipped cream or marshmallows if desired, and serve immediately.

HOT COCOA WITH ORANGE

Remove zest from 1 orange in strips about 1-inch wide. Follow Master Recipe for Hot Cocoa, adding zest along with milk. Remove zest strips with slotted spoon before beating or serving.

January, 1997
Original article and recipes by Adam Ried