Rediscovering Whole Wheat Bread
We set out to find the ideal compromise between heavy, dull-tasting rounds and soft, American-style breads with little flavor.
The challenge: A large part of developing a recipe for our ideal loaf of whole wheat bread was figuring out just what that was. Our initial tests produced a rustic European loaf (which we liked, but decided we really wanted a more American-style bread), a bland-tasting loaf, a bitter- and an odd-tasting loaf, a loaf that was too dense, one that was too salty, and one lacking in sweetness (an important element in enhancing the rich flavor of whole wheat flour). What all of our test recipes had in common—even the ones that we liked—was that they came up short on flavor and less-than-satisfying in texture. We wanted to get these just right.

The solution: We experimented quite a bit with amounts and kinds of flour (all-purpose and rye as well as whole wheat, the first because an all-whole-wheat loaf would be much too dense, the second to develop a more complex flavor) as well as the proportions of salt, yeast, and sweetener, and came closer to our ideal. But our real breakthrough came when we found a recipe that called for wheat germ. This simple addition made a terrific difference in our loaf, producing a nutty flavor and a slightly more complex texture. Starting with only a quarter cup, we liked this addition to our bread so much that the recipe ended up with a full half cup. Wheat germ, accompanied by a little rye flour, some honey, and some butter (as well as good proportions of the usual suspects: 3 cups whole wheat flour, 2 3/4 cups all purpose, and 1 1/2 tablespoons yeast), had helped us get our whole wheat bread just right.

WHOLE WHEAT BREAD WITH WHEAT GERM AND RYE

Makes 2 loaves or 16 rolls

Because kneading this wet, sticky dough can cause damage to lower-horsepower mixers, it’s best to use a heavy-duty mixer such as a KitchenAid. For those with less powerful mixers, be especially sure to use the low rather than the medium speed during kneading, or proceed instead with the instructions for hand kneading that follow this recipe.

2 1/3 cups warm water, preferably bottled springwater
1 1/2 tablespoons yeast
1/4 cup honey
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 cup rye flour
1/2 cup toasted wheat germ
3 cups whole wheat flour, preferably Hodgson Mill Whole Wheat Graham Flour
2 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
Extra flour for work surface

1. In bowl of standing mixer, mix water, yeast, honey, butter, and salt with rubber spatula. Mix in rye flour, wheat germ, and 1 cup each of whole wheat and white flours.

2. Using dough hook attachment, mix in remaining flours on low speed (number 2 on a KitchenAid) until dough is smooth and elastic, about 8 minutes. Transfer dough to floured work surface. Knead just long enough to confirm dough is soft and smooth, about 30 seconds.

3. Place dough in lightly greased bowl; cover with plastic wrap or damp kitchen towel. Let rise in warm draft-free area until dough has doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

4. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Gently punch down dough, then follow one of the shaping instructions attached (use the link below). Cover shaped dough; let rise until almost doubled in volume, 20 to 30 minutes.

5. For loaves, bake until instant-read thermometer inserted into loaf center reads 205 degrees, 35 to 45 minutes. For rolls, bake until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer bread immediately from baking pans to wire rack; cool to room temperature.

HAND-KNEADED WHOLE WHEAT BREAD

Follow recipe for Whole Wheat Bread with Wheat Germ and Rye, mixing water, yeast, honey, butter, salt, rye flour, and wheat germ in large mixing bowl. Mix 2 3/4 cup each of whole wheat and white flours in separate bowl, reserving 1/4 cup whole wheat flour. Add 3 1/2 cups of the flour mixture to wet ingredients; beat with wooden spoon 5 minutes. Beat in another 1 1/2 cups of the flour mixture to make thick dough. Turn dough onto work surface that has been sprinkled with some of the served flour. Knead, adding as little of remaining flour as necessary, to form soft, elastic dough, about 5 minutes. Continue with step 3.

January, 1997
Original article and recipes by Christopher Kimball and Eva Katz