The solution: The first thing we thought to consider when braising--cooking something partially immersed in a liquid while covered--was the braising liquid itself. We started with water, which produced lackluster results, then tried chicken broth, which overwhelmed the flavor of the celery, and finally settled on a mixture of water, butter, and vermouth, the butter serving to enrich the flavor of the sauce and the vermouth contributing a needed touch of herbal sweetness and acidity. Still looking for more flavor, we tried chopping up celery leaves and adding them to the braise. The leaves did boost the flavor, but an even more flavorful addition proved to be celery seed. It added a nice aromatic punch to the broth and the stalks.
With the flavor now where we wanted it, we turned our attention to the celery itself. Preparation turned out to be important: Peeling improved the texture and color of the dish (by removing strings as well as the surface green color that tended to go drab when cooked), and splitting the stalks lengthwise, then cutting them into two-inch pieces, leveled their size and shape enough to let them cook evenly. This also made them quite presentable when served. With a topping of Parmesan cheese cooked to golden brown under the broiler or a sauce made with Roquefort cheese, this braised celery was anything but boring and certainly not old-fashioned.

BRAISED CELERY WITH VERMOUTH-BUTTER GLAZE

Serves 4

1/2 cup dry vermouth
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon celery seed
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 head celery (1 1/2 pounds), leaves trimmed and reserved; stalks separated, rinsed, and outer fibers removed with a vegetable peeler; each stalk halved lengthwise and cut on an angle into 2-inch lengths
2 tablespoons minced celery leaves
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves (optional)

Bring 1 cup water and vermouth, butter, salt, celery seed, pepper, and celery to boil in medium sauté pan, covering surface of celery with parchment or waxed paper circle. (Liquid should come about 3/4 of the way up the celery pieces.) Reduce heat to simmer; cook until celery is tender, but not mushy, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove paper; stir in celery leaves. Continue to simmer until broth reduces to light glaze, 5 to 7 minutes. Sprinkle with optional parsley, adjust seasonings, and serve.

GLAZED CELERY WITH PARMESAN CHEESE

Follow recipe for Braised Celery with Vermouth-Butter Glaze, adjusting oven rack to upper middle position and heating broiler. Transfer glazed celery to ovenproof dish, sprinkle with 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, and broil until cheese browns, 1 to 3 minutes, depending on broiler.

CELERY-ROQUEFORT GRATIN

Follow recipe for Braised Celery with Vermouth-Butter Glaze, heating oven to 400 degrees. Braise celery until just tender, about 15 minutes. As celery braises, cream 4 teaspoons flour and 3 ounces Roquefort cheese together with spoon. Remove parchment or waxed paper circle and transfer celery pieces with slotted spoon into 4-cup (10-inch round) gratin dish. Whisk cheese mixture into reserved broth. Bring to boil; simmer until thickened, about 1 minute. Pour cheese sauce over celery, shaking pan to distribute sauce evenly. Sprinkle top with 1/4 cup chopped walnuts. Bake until sauce is bubbly and nuts are lightly browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven, cool 5 minutes, and serve.