The solution: Unsurprisingly, our most important tests revolved around tomatoes. Given that good fresh tomatoes are a rare commodity and we wanted a sauce that home cooks could use year-round, we decided to use canned tomatoes. We started testing with crushed tomatoes and were disappointed with the lackluster flavor they showed in this recipe. We moved on to whole tomatoes, with mixed results. Then we stumbled upon a particular brand of diced whole tomatoes, Muir Glen Diced Tomatoes, which quickly became our favorite. Diced tomatoes are very convenient because the entire contents of the can may be used; with whole tomatoes, using all of the packing liquid resulted in a substantially thinner sauce. Even better, the flavor was fresh and bright with a good balance of sweet and acid.
To keep things simple, we wanted to eliminate nonessentials such as carrots, meat, and wine from our sauce. After conducting a number of tests, we determined the crucial ingredients to be garlic, fresh basil, olive oil, salt, and sugar. Treatment of the garlic warranted special attention. Recipes with browned garlic often result in a bitter sauce. In a recent story we had discovered that using a garlic puree diluted with water and sautéed briefly in olive oil provided a mild, even garlic flavor while greatly reducing the possibility of overcooking the garlic. This proved to be the best method for the tomato sauce.

A caveat: Muir Glen also sells ground peeled tomatoes, which we did not like as much as the diced tomatoes given that they had a flatter, duller flavor. This supported our finding that such overly processed tomatoes tend to have less flavor. If Muir Glen Diced Tomatoes are not available in your supermarket, we recommend whole canned tomatoes. Just be sure to drain the tomatoes before using them, reserving the liquid, to guard against the tendency of the quick-cooked sauce to be too thin.

MASTER RECIPE FOR PASTA AND SIMPLE TOMATO SAUCE

Dresses 3/4 pound pasta: Serves 3

If you use whole canned tomatoes, avoid those packed in sauce or puree, which results in a dull, relatively flavorless sauce without the interplay of sweetness and acidity. If you choose Muir Glen Diced Tomatoes instead, use the can’s entire contents, without discarding any liquid. The pasta and sauce quantities can be doubled, but you will have to simmer the sauce for an extra five or six minutes to thicken it. If you do not have a garlic press, mince the garlic very fine and sauté it for one minute rather than two. Note that the salt in this recipe is added in two batches; if you are using the sauce for something other than pasta, simply salt to taste rather than adding the second quantity of salt. Although three-quarters of a pound of pasta may seem an odd quantity, a full pound of pasta will dilute the sauce, resulting in a lack of flavor. You can, however, stretch the sauce to cover one pound of pasta if you make one of the more flavorful variations.

1 28-ounce can diced or whole tomatoes (not packed in puree or sauce)
2 medium garlic cloves, peeled
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh basil leaves (about 8 leaves)
1 1/4 teaspoon sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
3/4 pound pasta

1. If using diced tomatoes, go to step 2. If using whole tomatoes, drain and reserve liquid. Dice tomatoes either by hand or in workbowl of food processor fitted with metal blade (three or four 1/2-second pulses). Tomatoes should be coarse, with 1/4-inch pieces visible. If necessary, add enough reserved liquid to tomatoes to total 2 cups.

2. Process garlic through garlic press into small bowl; stir in 1 teaspoon water (see note, above). Heat 2 tablespoons oil and garlic in 10-inch sauté pan over medium heat until fragrant but not brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in tomatoes; simmer until thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Stir in basil, sugar, and 1/2 teaspoon salt.

3. Meanwhile, cook pasta until al dente in large pot of boiling, salted water. Reserve 1/4 cup cooking water; drain pasta, and transfer it back to cooking pot. Mix in reserved cooking water, sauce, and remaining oil and salt; cook together over medium heat for 1 minute, stirring constantly, and serve immediately.

PASTA AND TOMATO SAUCE WITH BACON AND PARSLEY

Dresses 3/4 pound pasta: Serves 3

In 10-inch skillet, fry 4 ounces sliced bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, over medium-high heat until crisp and brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer with slotted spoon to paper towel–lined plate; pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from pan. Follow Master Recipe for Pasta and Simple Tomato Sauce, omitting olive oil from sauce and heating garlic and 1/2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes in bacon fat until fragrant but not brown, about 2 minutes. Continue with master recipe, substituting 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves for basil and adding reserved bacon along with parsley.

PASTA AND TOMATO SAUCE WITH ANCHOVIES AND OLIVES

Dresses 3/4 pound pasta: Serves 3

Follow Master Recipe for Pasta and Simple Tomato Sauce, increasing garlic to 3 cloves and adding 1/2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes and 3 minced anchovy fillets along with garlic puree and oil. Substitute 1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves for basil. Add 1/4 cup pitted, sliced Kalamata olives and 2 tablespoons drained capers along with remaining seasonings.

PASTA AND TOMATO SAUCE WITH VODKA AND CREAM

Dresses 1 pound pasta; Serves 4

Follow Master Recipe for Pasta and Simple Tomato Sauce, adding 1/4 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes along with garlic. Halfway through the 10-minute simmering time, add 1/2 cup vodka. Continue with master recipe, adding 1 cup heavy cream and ground black pepper to taste along with remaining seasonings. Transfer sauce to workbowl of food processor fitted with a steel blade; pulse to a coarse puree. Return sauce to pan; simmer over medium heat to thicken, 2 to 3 minutes.

May, 1997
Original article and recipes by Christopher Kimball and Eva Katz

 
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