Sugar Snap Peas
Blanching followed by an immediate shock in ice water yields tender peas that hold their shape.
The challenge: A sweet and crispy cross between the snow pea and the garden pea, the sugar snap is completely edible, pod and all. Because raw sugar snaps taste chalky and flat, the peas are best eaten cooked—but just barely. We wanted to determine the best method for doing just that.

The solution: The cooking methods we tried included sautéing, microwaving, steaming, and blanching. Sautéing was problematic from the start. The peas did not soften quickly enough, so that by the time they were tender enough to eat they had lost their bright green color and turned into an unappealing mush. Microwaving failed to cook the peas evenly. Opening the microwave and stirring helped, but this seemed too fussy. Steaming yielded tender peas, but they tasted flat. We found that sugar snaps greatly benefit from the addition of some salt as they cook, something that can only be done if the peas are blanched.
Blanching ended up being our method of choice, producing peas with excellent flavor and texture. The only problem was that blanched peas tend to shrivel or pucker a bit as they cool. We solved the problem by plunging the cooked peas in ice water as soon as they were drained. This also helped to set their bright color and prevent further softening from residual heat.

BLANCHED SUGAR SNAP PEAS

Have a bowl of ice water ready to “shock” the drained peas and prevent further softening and shriveling.

1 teaspoon salt
4 cups loosely packed sugar snap peas (about 1 pound), stems snipped off and strings removed if needed

1. Bring 6 cups water to brisk boil in 3- or 4-quart saucepan. Add salt and peas and cook until crisp-tender, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes depending on size of peas.

2. Drain peas, shock in ice water, drain again, and pat dry. (Peas can be set aside for up to 1 hour. See recipes below for seasoning ideas.)

SUGAR SNAP PEAS WITH HAZELNUT BUTTER AND SAGE

Serves 6
Because you must judge the color of the butter as it cooks, avoid dark-colored pans like unlined anodized aluminum or nonstick for this recipe.

2 tablespoons chopped hazelnuts
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 recipe Blanched Sugar Snap Peas
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt
Ground black pepper

1. Toast hazelnuts over medium heat in small skillet, shaking pan often to promote even cooking, until just fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes.

2. Heat butter over medium heat in medium sauté pan until it browns to color of brown sugar and smells nutty, about 5 minutes. Take care not to burn. Add peas, sage, and nuts; toss to combine. Cook until just heated through, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste; serve immediately.

SUGAR SNAP PEAS WITH HAM AND MINT

Do not use sliced ham for this recipe. Rather, buy a small hunk of country or smoked ham and cut it into a quarter-inch dice.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 cup country or smoked ham, diced to 1/4 inch
1 recipe Blanched Sugar Snap Peas
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt
Ground black pepper

Melt butter over medium heat in medium sauté pan. Add ham; sauté 1 minute. Add peas and mint; toss to combine. Cook until just heated through, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste; serve immediately.

SUGAR SNAP PEAS WITH LEMON, GARLIC, AND BASIL

Serves 6

2 tablespoons olive oil
Zest of 1 medium lemon, sliced very fine, plus 1 tablespoon juice
1 medium garlic clove, minced
1 recipe Blanched Sugar Snap Peas
6–8 fresh basil leaves, chopped fine
1/2 teaspoon salt
Ground black pepper

Heat oil over medium heat in medium sauté pan. Add zest and garlic; sauté until garlic is soft but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add peas, lemon juice, and basil; toss to combine. Cook until just heated through, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste; serve immediately.

SUGAR SNAP PEAS WITH ASIAN DRESSING

Serves 6
To mingle the flavors, you can let the peas and dressing stand for up to ten minutes. More than that and the peas start to lose their bright green color.

2 teaspoons sesame seeds
2 tablespoons orange juice
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
1/2 teaspoon soy sauce 1 scallion (white and green parts), sliced thin
1/2 teaspoon peeled and grated fresh gingerroot
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
Salt and ground black pepper
1 recipe Blanched Sugar Snap Peas

1. Toast sesame seeds over medium heat in small skillet, shaking pan often to promote even cooking, until light brown and fragrant, 4 to 5 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, combine juice, vinegar, honey, soy sauce, scallion, and ginger in small bowl. Whisk in oils. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in sesame seeds. (Dressing can be set aside for several hours.)

3. Toss dressing with peas and serve.


May, 1997
Original article and recipes by Diana Shaw