Goal: We wanted a muffin that wouldn't set off sugar alarms, with a pronounced but not overwhelming cornmeal flavor and a moist and tender crumb. And all of this goodness would have to be capped off with a crunchy, golden, craggy muffin top.

Solution: Choose a whole-grain cornmeal in a fine grind for wholesome and complex corn flavor. For a muffin with good height and a substantial crumb, use a quick-bread method that combines melted instead of creamed butter with sugar, eggs, and flour. Finally, mix in some sour cream, which contributes moisture and a tender texture.

CORN MUFFINS
Makes 12 muffins

Whole-grain cornmeal has a fuller flavor than regular cornmeal milled from degerminated corn. To determine what kind of cornmeal a package contains, look closely at the label.

2 cups (10 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup (4 1/2 ounces) fine-ground, whole-grain yellow cornmeal
11/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
3/4 cup (5 1/4 ounces) sugar
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
3/4 cup sour cream
1/2 cup milk

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Spray standard muffin tin with nonstick cooking spray.
2. Whisk flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in medium bowl to combine; set aside. Whisk eggs in second medium bowl until well combined and light-colored, about 20 seconds. Add sugar to eggs; whisk vigorously until thick and homogenous, about 30 seconds; add melted butter in 3 additions, whisking to combine after each addition. Add half the sour cream and half the milk and whisk to combine; whisk in remaining sour cream and milk until combined. Add wet ingredients to dry ingredients; mix gently with rubber spatula until batter is just combined and evenly moistened. Do not over-mix. Using an ice cream scoop or large spoon, divide batter evenly among muffin cups, dropping it to form mound. Do not level or flatten surface of mounds.
3. Bake until muffins are light golden brown and skewer inserted into center of muffins comes out clean, about 18 minutes, rotating muffin tin from front to back halfway through baking time. Cool muffins in tin 5 minutes; invert muffins onto wire rack, stand muffins upright, cool 5 minutes longer, and serve warm.

CORN AND APRICOT MUFFINS
WITH ORANGE ESSENCE

1. In food processor, process 2/3 cup granulated sugar and 11/2 teaspoons grated orange zest until pale orange, about 10 seconds. Transfer to small bowl and set aside.
2. In food processor, pulse 11/2 cups (10 ounces) dried apricots for ten 2-second pulses, until chopped fine. Transfer to medium microwave-safe bowl; add 2/3 cup orange juice to apricots, cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap, and microwave on high until simmering, about 1 minute. Let apricots stand, covered, until softened and plump, about 5 minutes. Strain apricots; discard juice.
3. Follow recipe for Corn Muffins, substituting 1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar for equal amount granulated sugar and stirring 1/2 teaspoon grated orange zest and strained apricots into wet ingredients before adding to dry ingredients. Before baking, sprinkle a portion of orange sugar over each mound of batter. Do not invert baked muffins; use a paring knife to lift muffins from tin one at a time and transfer to wire rack. Cool muffins 5 minutes longer; serve warm.

BACON-SCALLION CORN MUFFINS
WITH CHEDDAR CHEESE

Because these muffins contain bacon, store leftovers in the refrigerator wrapped in plastic. Bring them to room temperature or re-warm the muffins before serving.

1. Grate 8 ounces cheddar cheese (you should have 2 cups); set aside. Fry 3 slices bacon (about 3 ounces), cut into 1/2-inch pieces, in small skillet over medium heat until crisp and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add 10 to 12 medium scallions, sliced thin (about 11/4 cups), 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper; cook to heat through, about 1 minute. Transfer mixture to plate to cool while making muffins.
2. Follow recipe for Corn Muffins, reducing sugar to 1/2 cup. Stir 11/2 cups grated cheddar cheese and bacon/scallion mixture into wet ingredients, then add to dry ingredients and combine. Before baking, sprinkle a portion of additional 1/2 cup cheddar over each mound of batter.

September, 2002
Original article and recipes by Erin McMurrer

 
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