The solution: We tried a variety of recipes, from fairly lean (using whole milk) to quite fatty (using heavy cream and extra egg yolks). The best mixture, a medium-rich custard with good mouthfeel, fine taste, and a good set, combined two whole eggs with two yolks, one cup of milk, and one cup of heavy cream.
Oven temperature is also important in baking custard, influencing texture. High heat toughens egg proteins and shrinks the albumin, separating, or curdling, the mixture and squeezing out the water instead of keeping the egg in perfect suspension. Moderate heat is best. We found that baking the quiche at 375 degrees was low enough to set the custard gently and hot enough to brown the top before the filling became dried out and rubbery.
To test for doneness, watch the oven, not the clock. Look for a light golden brown coloring on the quiche surface, which may puff up slightly as it bakes. A knife blade inserted about one inch from the edge should come out clean; the center may still be slightly liquid, but internal heat will finish the baking, and the filling will solidify as it cools.

For good measure: Be sure to set the baked quiche on a wire rack to cool, so that air circulates all around it. To let the custard settle, cool until it is warm or at room temperature. The cooler the quiche, the more neatly it will slice.

MASTER RECIPE FOR QUICHE LORRAINE

Serves 8

The center of the quiche will be surprisingly soft when it comes out of the oven, but the filling will continue to set (and sink somewhat) as it cools. If the pie shell has been previously baked and cooled, place it in the preheating oven for about five minutes to warm it, taking care that it does not burn. Because ingredients in the variations that follow are bulkier, the amount of custard mixture has been reduced to prevent overflowing the crust.

1 9-inch partially baked pie shell, warm
8 ounces bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 8 slices)
2 large eggs, plus 2 large yolks
1 cup whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
Pinch grated nutmeg
4 ounces Gruyère cheese, grated (1/2 cup)

1. Adjust oven rack to center position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Fry bacon in skillet over medium heat until crisp and brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer with slotted spoon to paper towel–lined plate. Meanwhile, whisk all remaining ingredients except cheese in medium bowl.

2. Spread cheese and bacon evenly over bottom of warm pie shell and set shell on oven rack. Pour in custard mixture to 1/2-inch below crust rim. Bake until lightly golden brown and a knife blade inserted about one inch from the edge comes out clean, and center feels set but soft like gelatin, 32 to 35 minutes. Transfer quiche to rack to cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.

CRABMEAT QUICHE

Follow Master Recipe for Quiche Lorraine, reducing quantities of milk and cream to 3/4 cup each. Add 2 tablespoons dry sherry and a pinch cayenne pepper to custard mixture. Substitute 8 ounces (1 cup) cooked crabmeat tossed with 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives for bacon and cheese.

LEEK AND GOAT CHEESE QUICHE

Sauté white part of 2 medium leeks, washed thoroughly and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups), in 2 tablespoons unsalted butter over medium heat until soft, 5–7 minutes. Follow Master Recipe for Quiche Lorraine, reducing quantities of milk and cream to 3/4 cup each. Omit bacon; substitute 4 ounces mild goat cheese, broken into 1/2-inch pieces, for Gruyère. Add leeks with cheese.

HAM AND ASPARAGUS QUICHE

Blanch 8 asparagus cut on the bias into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 cup) in 1 quart salted boiling water until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Follow Master Recipe for Quiche Lorraine, reducing quantities of milk and cream to 3/4 cup each. Replace bacon and cheese with asparagus and 4 ounces deli baked ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice.

September, 1997
Original article and recipes by Susan G. Purdy

 
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