Quick Winter Relishes
Cranberries, dried fruit, sweet potatoes, and other winter produce can quickly be transformed into relishes that bring bright, sharp tastes to the table.
Unlike our grandparents, we have little need to pickle and otherwise preserve fresh fruits and vegetables. But these fresh relishes, which will keep for several days in the refrigerator, have the same purpose as our grandmother’s pickles: to bring bright, refreshing flavors to the winter table.

CRANBERRY-GREEN GRAPE RELISH

Makes about 4 cups

Ideal with turkey, this relish also complements other roasted poultry and game birds.

1/2 cup white wine
1/4 cup sugar
2/3 cup fresh cranberries
1/4 cup juice from 1 large orange
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
1 pound seedless green grapes, halved
2 tablespoons juice from 1 lime
Salt and ground black pepper

1. Bring wine, sugar, and half the cranberries to boil in small, non-reactive saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add orange juice, ginger, remaining cranberries, and half the grapes, return to boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer until about half the cranberries pop and liquid thickens slightly, about 5 minutes.

2. Off heat, mix in remaining grapes and lime juice. Cool to room temperature, then season with salt and pepper to taste (can be stored in airtight container and refrigerated up to 3 days).

GREEN APPLE CHUTNEY WITH APRICOTS AND GINGER

Makes about 5 cups

Try serving this spicy chutney with ham or other roasted pork.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, sliced thin
1 medium tomato, cut into
1/4-inch dice
2 green apples such as Granny Smith, cored and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/2 cup dried apricots, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1/2 small jalapeño chile pepper, cored, seeded, and minced
3/4 cup distilled white vinegar
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
1/2 cup juice from 2 large oranges
Salt and ground black pepper

Heat oil in large, non-reactive sauté pan over medium heat until shimmering but not smoking. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add tomato through chile pepper; cook, stirring until fragrant, about 2 minutes longer. Add vinegar, sugar, and orange juice; simmer, stirring occasionally, until juices thicken, about 5 minutes. Cool to room temperature, then season with salt and ground black pepper to taste (can be stored in airtight container and refrigerated up to 2 weeks).

CUMIN-SPIKED ORANGE-RED ONION RELISH

Makes about 4 1/2 cups

This relish is a good match for firm-fleshed fish such as salmon, tuna, or swordfish.

4 medium oranges, peel and pith removed, sectioned, and seeded
1 medium red onion, minced
1/2 red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 medium garlic clove, minced
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 medium jalapeño or other small chile pepper, cored, seeded, and minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh oregano leaves
1 tablespoon honey
1/3 cup juice from 2 medium lemons
Salt and ground black pepper

Mix all ingredients, including salt and ground black pepper to taste, in medium non-reactive bowl (can be stored in airtight container and refrigerated up to 4 days).

FENNEL-TANGERINE SLAW

Makes about 4 cups

The small, seedless tangerines called clementines are particularly good in this slaw.

2 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed and chopped coarse
2 tangerines or clementines, peeled, segmented, seeds removed, and segments halved crosswise
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
2 tablespoons juice from
1 large lemon
2 tablespoons grainy mustard
1 medium garlic clove, minced
1/2 cup olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper

Mix fennel, tangerines, and parsley in large bowl. Whisk lemon juice, mustard, and garlic in small bowl; whisk in oil until dressing is smooth. Toss with fennel mixture and season to taste with salt and ground black pepper (can be stored in airtight container and refrigerated up to 2 days).

CURRIED SWEET POTATO CHUTNEY

Makes about 4 cups

Be careful not to overcook the sweet potatoes when you are blanching them, because you want them to maintain their shape when mixed with the other ingredients.

2 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
Salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch medium dice
1/2 medium red onion, peeled and cut into medium dice
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
1 small clove garlic, minced
1 medium jalapeño chile pepper, cored, seeded, and minced
1/2 medium fresh pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 2 cups)
1/4 cup raisins
3/4 cup distilled white vinegar
1/4 cup pineapple juice
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons curry powder
Ground black pepper

1. Bring 3 quarts water to boil in 4-quart non-reactive saucepan. Add sweet potatoes and 1 teaspoon salt and cook until potatoes are tender but still offer considerable resistance when pierced with fork, about 8 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water, drain again, and set aside.

2. Heat oil in now-empty saucepan over medium-high heat until shimmering but not smoking. Add bell pepper and onion; sauté, stirring frequently, until onion softens, 3 to 4 minutes. Add ginger, garlic, and jalapeño; sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute longer. Add reserved sweet potatoes and pineapple through curry powder; bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid thickens slightly, about 10 minutes. Cool to room temperature and season with salt and ground black pepper to taste (can be stored in airtight container and refrigerated up to 2 weeks).

November, 1997
Original article and recipes by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby