Cooking with Walnuts
To bring out walnuts' full flavor, don't blanch, but do toast in a skillet.
Walnuts are much more than flavor enhancers. In addition to accenting sweet snacks, they can also form the basis of savory dishes, from sandwich spreads to omelettes to rich, yet healthy sauces. We found a marked difference in taste when the nuts are lightly toasted before use. Most directions for toasting are generic and recommend baking any sort of nut for ten minutes in an oven at 350 degrees. But with walnuts, the best flavor is released when you toast the nuts briefly in a skillet, preferably a cast-iron one that heats quickly. The direct and vigorous contact with the hot surface lightly crisps the nuts and intensifies their flavor, making them taste richer than when oven-toasted.

For Good Measure: For convenience, most of us buy walnuts already shelled, in halves or in pieces. The nuts should appear firm and oily; shriveled or whitish nut meats indicate that much of the oil, and therefore the flavor, has been lost. It is better to buy the more expensive halves rather than the bits -- the larger the pieces, the longer they will keep. Also, because of their high fat content, walnuts tend to absorb other flavors, so once opened, store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator or freezer, where they will keep for months.

TOASTED WALNUTS WITH CURRY SPICES

Makes 2 cups

These sweet, spicy nuts can be kept for three to four weeks in an airtight container.

3/4 teaspoon curry powder
3/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon each: ground coriander, ground ginger, and cayenne pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 cups shelled walnuts, halved
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
Oil or cooking spray for cookie sheet

1. Mix spices in small bowl; set aside.

2. Place nut halves in dry cast-iron skillet over medium heat and cook, stirring frequently, 4 to 5 minutes, just until the nuts begin to sizzle and become fragrant. Add butter and stir until melted. Add spices and stir constantly until they are fragrant and begin to darken, about 1 minute.

3. Add sugar, 1 tablespoon water, and salt; continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens and walnuts are glazed, 5 to 6 minutes.

4. Turn nuts onto greased cookie sheet; arrange in single layer, using two forks to separate individual nuts. Let cool completely and store.

LINGUINE WITH WALNUT, GARLIC, AND HERB SAUCE

Serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/4 cups shelled walnuts, chopped fine
4 large garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for sprinkling on top
1/3 cup each: minced fresh basil and parsley leaves
3 tablespoons heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more for cooking water
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 pound dried linguine

1. Heat butter in large cast-iron skillet over medium heat until it begins to brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Add oil and walnuts; cook, stirring frequently until walnuts are fragrant and begin to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add garlic and cook until softened, about 1 minute longer. Remove skillet from heat; stir in cheese, basil, parsley, cream, salt, and pepper.

2. Meanwhile, cook linguine in large pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup cooking water.

3. Toss reserved sauce and pasta together, adding just enough cooking water to moisten the dish. Serve with additional Parmesan cheese.

January, 1996
Original article and recipes by Darra Goldstein