Quick-Cooked Zucchini
Either salt and drain or shred and squeeze this vegetable before sautéing, or slice it lengthwise and throw it on the grill.
The challenge: Given zucchini's ability to take over a garden, it's no surprise that cooks have devised dozens of ways to use this vegetable in everything from breads to pasta sauces. We wanted to answer a single question: Assuming that you have several pounds of zucchini, what are the best ways to turn it into a side dish? The main problem that confronts the cook when preparing zucchini is its wateriness. Zucchini is 95 percent water (among vegetables, only lettuce contains more water) and will become soupy if it is just thrown into a hot pan.

The solution: The first precautions against wateriness must take place in the supermarket. Pick smaller zucchini, which are more flavorful and less watery than the larger ones. To then shed water from the zucchini, we found that tossing slices with salt sheds about 25 percent of its weight after thirty minutes. If you don't have time to salt, there is another option. Moisture from grated zucchini can be extracted manually by simply wrapping the shredded vegetable between several layers of paper towels or a large kitchen towel and squeezing. Zucchini benefits most from dry-heat cooking methods, like grilling and broiling, since liquid in the vegetable evaporates, causing the delicate flavor to become concentrated. In fact, when grilling, it is not necessary, or even desirable, to remove liquid by salting. Given the intense heat of the grill, we find that the high moisture content in the zucchini actually helps prevent the vegetable from scorching over hot coals. Sauteing, however, is another matter. Even in a blazing hot pan, the zucchini will soon start to steam in its own juices if it is not salted or shredded and squeezed.

SHREDDED ZUCCHINI SAUTÉ WITH GARLIC AND HERBS

Serves 4

A shredding and drying technique is the best choice when you are pressed for time and want to cook zucchini indoors. Use any fresh herb on hand, varying the amount depending on its intensity. For instance, use two tablespoons of basil, parsley, or chives but just one tablespoon of oregano, thyme, or tarragon.

3 tablespoons olive oil
4 medium zucchini (about 1 1/3 pounds), rinsed, trimmed, shredded, and squeezed dry
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1–2 tablespoons minced fresh herb leaves, such as parsley, basil, tarragon, or mint
Salt and ground black pepper

Heat oil in 10-inch (preferably nonstick) skillet over medium-high heat. Add zucchini and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until zucchini is tender, about 7 minutes. Stir in herbs and salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

SHREDDED ZUCCHINI AND CARROT SAUTÉ WITH GARLIC AND HERBS

Follow Master Recipe for Shredded Zucchini Sauté with Garlic and Herbs, substituting two medium peeled and shredded carrots for one of the zucchini.

CREAMED ZUCCHINI WITH HERBS

Follow Master Recipe for Shredded Zucchini Sauté with Garlic and Herbs, substituting an equal amount of butter for olive oil. Omit garlic. Add 1/4 cup heavy cream along with herbs; simmer briefly until cream is absorbed.

ZUCCHINI FRITTATA WITH PARMESAN AND HERBS

Heat broiler. Beat six large eggs with 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese in medium bowl; set aside. Follow Master Recipe for Shredded Zucchini Sauté with Garlic and Herbs, stirring fully cooked zucchini mixture into eggs. Heat 2 additional teaspoons oil in the now empty skillet over medium heat. Add zucchini-egg mixture; cook until frittata is almost set, 4 to 5 minutes. Slide skillet under broiler and cook until frittata is set and top is browned. Do not let frittata burn. Flip onto serving plate. Serve hot or at room temperature.

SAUTÉED ZUCCHINI WITH LEMON AND HERBS

Serves 4

Salt causes zucchini rounds to release excess water. This important extra step helps the zucchini to sauté rather than stew in its own juices. I found quarter-inch slices the perfect thickness. Thinner slices fall apart during cooking; thicker slices require a longer salting time. Use any fresh herb, varying the amount depending on its intensity. (Use more of the soft-leaved herbs such as mint, basil, or parsley, and less of the more intense ones such as oregano, thyme, or rosemary.) If you do not have kosher salt on hand, use a teaspoon or so of regular table salt.

4 medium zucchini (about 1 1/3 pounds), rinsed, trimmed, and sliced crosswise into rounds about 1/4 inch thick
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion or 2 large shallots, minced
1 teaspoon grated zest and 1 tablespoon juice from 1 medium lemon
1–2 tablespoons minced fresh herb leaves
Ground black pepper

1. Place zucchini slices in colander and sprinkle with 2 teaspoons salt. Set colander over bowl until about 1/3 cup water drains from zucchini, about 30 minutes. Rinse and thoroughly dry zucchini.

2. Heat oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add onions or shallots; sauté until almost softened, about 3 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high; add zucchini and lemon zest and sauté until zucchini is golden brown, about 10 minutes.

3. Stir in lemon juice and herbs, and season with pepper to taste. Adjust seasonings and serve immediately.

GRILLED ZUCCHINI SALAD WITH TOMATOES AND BASIL

Serves 6

Grilled zucchini can also be marinated in a vinaigrette made with red wine vinegar. Feel free to use any fresh herb on hand in the dressing. Grilled zucchini can be served right from the grill as a simple side dish with grilled meats, poultry, or fish.

6 medium zucchini (about 2 pounds), rinsed, trimmed, and sliced lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick strips
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 large ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into thin wedges
2 tablespoons minced fresh basil leaves

1. Heat grill. Lay zucchini on large baking sheet and brush both sides with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper.

2. When grill rack is hot, use stiff wire brush to scrape surface clean. Grill zucchini until dark grill marks are visible on one side, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and continue to grill until other side is marked, about 2 minutes. Remove from grill and cool briefly.

3. Whisk remaining 2 tablespoons oil with balsamic vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Toss tomatoes and basil with dressing in large bowl.

4. Cut grilled zucchini into 1-inch pieces. Toss with tomatoes and dressing. Adjust seasonings and serve. (Can be covered and set aside at room temperature for up to 3 hours at this point.)

July, 1995
Original article and recipes by Jack Bishop

 
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Grater