Solution: We found that using a mixture of milk and water seemed to mask the corn's clear, sweet flavor. Corn kernels boiled in salted water were predictably tougher than those boiled in unsalted water. Sugar-seasoned water, however, brought out the natural sweetness of the corn the same way that salted water enhanced the flavors of other vegetables. Cooking the new sugar-enhanced varieties of corn in sugar-seasoned water, however, pushed them into the dessert category. Regardless of the cooking technique, we found that corn cooked in the husks consistently picked up the pleasant, fermented, earthy smell of the grassy husk, a flavor that appeals to some, though not to others.

For Good Measure: Perhaps more important than the cooking method is cooking corn right after it is picked. For those who can't cook their corn right after it is picked, or even right after buying, you can extend the corn's shelf life by doing the following: make an ice water bath that has two drops of Chlorox bleach and one drop of lemon juice added to every gallon of water. Shuck and silk fresh-picked corn and drop the ears in the ice water. After at least 15 minutes, remove the ears from the water, drain, and package in gallon-size zipper-lock storage bags. Seal the bag and store the corn in the coldest section of the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

BOILED CORN ON THE COB

If you want to serve more than one ear per person, remove cooked ears from the pot, add another four ears to the boiling liquid and let them cook while the first batch is being eaten. If the corn you are serving is one of the new super-sweet varieties, omit the sugar from the water.

4 teaspoons sugar
4 ears corn, silked and soaked in water for 30 minutes or completely husked
Butter
Salt and ground black pepper

Bring 1 gallon water and sugar to boil in large pot. Add corn; return to boil and cook until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain and serve with butter, salt, and pepper to taste.

MICROWAVED CORN ON THE COB

Place four silked or husked ears of corn on large plate; cover tightly with microwavable plastic wrap and microwave on high power for 10 minutes. Leaving plate covered with plastic wrap, let stand 3 to 4 minutes longer. Serve with butter, salt, and pepper to taste.

STEAMED CORN ON THE COB

Set a steamer basket in a large pot with about 1 inch of water. Bring to boil; carefully place four silked or husked ears of corn in basket. Cover and steam over high heat until tender, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from basket with tongs and serve immediately with butter, salt, and pepper to taste.

GRILLED CORN ON THE COB

Heat grill. When grill is hot, place four silked ears of corn that have been soaked in water to cover for at least 30 minutes on grill rack. Grill over high heat, turning corn by quarter turns, until husks char, 15 to 20 minutes.