The solution: Our results were surprising. The type and quantity of fat dramatically affected the taste, texture, and shelf life of the resulting biscotti. In the matter of taste, the fresh-baked biscotti containing sweet cream butter provided a superior and irresistible rich flavor. Our favorite combination of ingredients, however, included whole eggs, with no additional yolks or butter, because it resulted in the truest delivery -- lean and direct -- of the flavors in these cookies. Also, the biscotti recipes using whole eggs seemed to get even better with time; they tasted great and remained very crisp after a week and, if stored properly, would keep for several weeks.

For good measure: Make sure that you allow enough time for both of the baking steps. All biscotti recipes share the common characteristics of quick preparation time and a relatively long baking time because they are twice baked. Also, it is preferable to use a rubber spatula, waxed paper, or plastic wrap if you have trouble handling the dough. Resist the urge to add more flour. One final note: biscotti must be completely cooled before storage, to ensure that all the moisture has escaped.

LEMON-ANISE BISCOTTI

Makes 3-4 dozen

A Sicilian specialty, this recipe produces a relatively hard biscuit -- perfect with an afternoon cup of coffee.

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon minced zest from 1 lemon
1 tablespoon anise seed

1. Sift first 3 ingredients together in a small bowl.

2. Whisk sugar and eggs in a large bowl to a light lemon color; stir in next 3 ingredients. Sift dry ingredients over egg mixture, then fold in until dough is just combined.

3. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Halve dough and turn each portion onto an oiled cookie sheet covered with parchment. Using floured hands, quickly stretch each portion of dough into a rough 13-by-2-inch log, placing them about 3 inches apart on the cookie sheet. Pat each dough shape to smooth it. Bake, turning pan once, until loaves are golden and just beginning to crack on top, about 35 minutes.

4. Cool the loaves for 10 minutes; lower oven temperature to 325 degrees. Cut each loaf diagonally into 3/8-inch slices with a serrated knife. Lay the slices about 1/2-inch apart on the cookie sheet, cut side up, and return them to the oven. Bake, turning over each cookie halfway through baking, until crisp and golden brown on both sides, about 15 minutes. Transfer biscotti to wire rack and cool completely. (Biscotti can be stored in an airtight container for at least 1 month.)

Variation: Follow the mixing, baking, and slicing instructions for Lemon-Anise Biscotti, substituting 1/2 cup of unhulled sesame seeds for the anise seeds in the recipe. Brush the top of each loaf of dough with an egg wash and sprinkle with additional sesame seeds.

HONEY-LAVENDER BISCOTTI

Makes 4-5 dozen

Based on the flavors of a popular Provençal ice cream, these honey-lavender biscotti are best made with an assertive honey, such as a spicy clover. Dried lavender blossoms, also an ingredient in herbes de Provence, can be found in spice or herbal stores, or see Where to Shop link below.

2 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup sugar
3 large eggs
3 tablespoons honey
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons minced zest from
1 orange
1 tablespoon dried lavender blossoms (optional)

1. Sift first 4 ingredients together in a small bowl.

2. Whisk sugar and eggs in a large bowl to a light lemon color; stir in next 3 (or 4) ingredients. Sift dry ingredients over egg mixture, then fold in until dough is just combined.

3. Follow steps 3 and 4 in Lemon-Anise Biscotti.

SPICED BISCOTTI

Makes 4-5 dozen

If desired, substitute three whole eggs for the two eggs and two egg yolks in this recipe.

2 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs plus 2 yolks
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Sift first 8 ingredients together in a small bowl.

2. Whisk sugar and eggs to a light lemon color; stir in vanilla extract. Sift dry ingredients over egg mixture, then fold in until dough is just combined.

3. Follow steps 3 and 4 in Lemon-Anise Biscotti.

Variations: Macerate 3/4 cup currants, chopped raisins, or dates in 1/4 cup brandy or marsala for at least 1 hour. Drain and fold into the dough in step 2, adding a teaspoon or so of the macerating liquid to the dough.

ORANGE-ALMOND BISCOTTI

Makes 3-4 dozen

The addition of a small amount of butter produces a richer, more cookielike texture. Although they will keep at least two weeks in an airtight container, these biscotti are especially good when eaten the same day they are baked.

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
3/4 cup whole almonds with skins; toasted, cooled, and chopped coarse
2 tablespoons minced zest from 1 orange

1. Sift first 3 ingredients together in a small bowl.

2. Beat butter and sugar together in bowl of electric mixer until light and smooth; add eggs one at a time, then extracts. Stir in almonds and zest. Sift dry ingredients over egg mixture, then fold in until dough is just mixed.

3. Follow steps 3 and 4 in Lemon-Anise Biscotti.

Variations: You may substitute toasted hazelnuts for the almonds in this recipe. A combination of hazelnuts and almonds also works very well.

January, 1994
Original article and recipes by Steve Johnson

 
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