How to Poach Fruit

With two different techniques and syrups of varying densities and flavors, you can make an infinite variety of simple poached fruit desserts.

Poaching is a particularly apt way to cook fruit. Unlike other cooking methods, poaching allows the shape, texture, and basic flavor of fruit to remain intact, while improving its tenderness and enhancing rather than masking its flavor. Poaching performs two distinct functions: it softens fruit's fiber and concentrates its natural sugars, allowing the fruit to retain its shape and most of its texture. Perfectly ripe fruit poaches quickly and easily. But poaching is also a perfect remedy for underripe or bland fruit, rendering it immediately edible. The technique for poaching, however, does differ slightly depending on the ripeness of the fruit you are using. When poaching firm and underripe fruit, you need only combine the fruit with the elements of the syrup and bring it to a simmer before allowing it to cool in the liquid. This slow cooking and cooling permits the fruit fiber to soften gently and absorb maximum flavor from the syrup. For soft, delicate fruit, it is preferable to make the syrup first, then while it is hot, pour it over the fruit.

For good measure: The cut surfaces of some fruit, especially pears, apples, peaches, cherries, and apricots, discolor when exposed to air. The easiest way to prevent browning is to poach the fruit immediately after prepping. The exception is pears, which discolor so quickly that they must be plunged directly into acidulated water (i.e. lemon water) to prevent browning.

STRAWBERRY AND RHUBARB COMPOTES WITH SUGARED PECANS

Serves 6–8

One of the mainstays of the lunch menu at Windows on the World restaurant, this continues to be one of my favorite simple, make-ahead desserts.

STRAWBERRY COMPOTE

1 quart strawberries, prepared according to chart
1 recipe medium syrup
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon Kirsch

RHUBARB COMPOTE

1 1/2 pounds fresh rhubarb, prepared according to chart
1 recipe heavy syrup, replacing 1 cup of the water with 1 cup orange juice

SUGARED PECANS

2 cups pecan halves
1 egg white
1 cup sugar

1. For the Strawberry Compote, follow cooking instructions on chart, flavor cooled berries with lemon juice and Kirsch. Cover and refrigerate.
2. For the Rhubarb Compote, follow cooking instructions on chart, cover and refrigerate.
3. For the Sugared Pecans, adjust rack to middle position and heat oven to 325°. Toss pecan halves with egg white in a 9-by-13-inch baking pan until nuts are completely coated; stir in sugar. Bake, stirring the mixture every 5 minutes, until pecan coating turns a nutty brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Immediately transfer nuts to a clean pan in a single layer to cool. Cool, then cover and store at room temperature.
4. Spoon a portion of each fruit, with a bit of its poaching liquid, into each dessert bowl. Top with Sugared Pecans and serve immediately.

POACHED PEARS WITH STAR ANISE

Serves 6

Chris Kump, joint chef/owner with his
wife, Margaret Fox, of Cafe Beaujolais in Mendocino, California, frequently serves these pears with vanilla ice cream or uses them as a base for pear souffle.

3 ripe Bartlett or other pears, prepared according to chart
1 recipe medium syrup
1 vanilla bean
1 star anise
1 tablespoon pear eau-de-vie
1 pint vanilla ice cream

1. Follow cooking instructions on chart, adding vanilla bean and star anise with the pears. Remove vanilla bean and star anise; cover pears and cool to room temperature, then refrigerate.
2. Spoon a half pear into each serving bowl and sprinkle with a few drops of eau-de-vie. Place a scoop of ice cream alongside each pear and serve immediately.

PEACHES AND CHERRIES
POACHED IN SPICED RED WINE

Serves 6

The accompanying chart is simply a guide. Here’s an example of a variation, particularly useful when you want to poach mixed fruits. Since the peaches are sliced rather than halved, they’ll be cooked, cherry-style, with the hot syrup poured over them. Serve this compote as is, with a bit of the poaching syrup, or as a shortcake topping.

1 pound peaches, peeled, pitted, and sliced
1 pound sweet cherries, prepared
according to chart
1/2 cinnamon stick
2 cloves
1 recipe medium syrup, replacing the 2 cups of water with 2 cups of red wine

1. Place the fruit in a large bowl, along with cinnamon stick and cloves. Pour boiling syrup over fruit; cover and cool to room temperature. Remove spices and refrigerate until ready to serve.

May, 1993

Click Here to View PDF file of the rating chart.

Original article and recipes by Nick Malgieri

SEE ALSO:

Cherry Pitter
Poaching Syrups
Seasonings for Poaching Syrup
Slicing Pineapple
To Core a Pear