The solution: We found the remedy for this problematic vegetable is salting. Salt draws water out of cells by creating such a high concentration of dissolved ions outside the cell walls that water inside is drawn out. For the salt to do its job, eggplant must macerate for at least one and one-half hours, preferably for two to three. It will not be harmed by macerating for as long as 24 hours. Salting alone, however, is not sufficient. The flesh of the eggplant must also be firmly pressed between sheets of paper towels; pressing extrudes the juice and compacts the flesh. Before pressing, conscientious rinsing is important. It not only floods away excess salt but also softens the eggplant, facilitating pressing. Finally, no matter what the cooking method, we found eggplant always comes out firmer, browner, and sweeter when cooked slowly rather than quickly.

MASTER RECIPE FOR SAUTEED EGGPLANT

Serves 4–6

2 pounds eggplant (about 2 medium eggplants)
1 tablespoon salt
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Ground black pepper
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2–4 tablespoons minced parsley or finely shredded fresh basil

1. Cut off and discard stem and bottom end of each eggplant. Cut eggplants crosswise into 3/4-inch slices, then cut slices into 3/4-inch strips. Place strips in a colander, sprinkle with salt, and toss. Set colander over a bowl or in the sink and let eggplant stand for at least 1 1/2 hours, preferably for 2 to 3, stirring it a couple of times.

2. Rinse eggplant under cold, running water, rubbing the strips lightly in your hands. Shake colander to drain. Lay strips about 1 inch apart on a triple thickness of paper towels; cover with another triple layer of towels. Using your palms, press each eggplant strip very firmly until it looks green and translucent and feels firm and leathery when pressed between fingertips. Repeat pressing process on fresh toweling if eggplant has not yet reached this stage. Repeat with remaining eggplant strips. (Can refrigerate up to 3 hours before cooking.)

3. In a heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet, heat oil until it shimmers and becomes fragrant. Add eggplant strips; saute until they begin to brown, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until eggplant is fully tender and lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in pepper and garlic; cook to blend flavors, about 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in herbs, adjust seasonings, and serve.

SAUTEED EGGPLANT WITH CRISPED BREAD CRUMBS

Serves 4–6

Add 1/2 cup fine-textured fresh bread crumbs with the garlic in the Master Recipe; toss lightly to coat strips. Turn heat to high; cook until crumbs begin to brown, about 1 minute. Toss and cook until crumbs brown, about 1 minute longer. Off heat, stir in basil.

SAUTEED EGGPLANT IN SPICY GARLIC SAUCE

Serves 4–6

Substitute 2 tablespoons dark sesame oil and 1 tablespoon peanut or vegetable oil for the olive oil in the Master Recipe. Increase garlic to 2 tablespoons, and add 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger and 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes with the garlic. Cook to blend flavors, about 1 minute. To this, add a mixture of 2 tablespoons dry sherry, 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce, 2 tablespoons vinegar (any kind), and 1 teaspoon sugar; simmer until liquid absorbs into eggplant, about 1 minute. Substitute 2 tablespoons minced cilantro and 2 tablespoons thin-sliced scallions for parsley or basil.

SAUTEED EGGPLANT IN TOMATO SAUCE WITH BASIL

Serves 4–6

Stir in 1 1/4 cups crushed tomatoes after the garlic has cooked for a minute in the Master Recipe. Simmer until tomatoes thicken slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in 1/4 cup finely shredded fresh basil.

MASTER RECIPE FOR BROILED EGGPLANT SLICES

Serves 2 as a main course, 4–6 as a side dish

As an alternative to broiling, you can bake the eggplant in the upper third of a 375-degree oven for 20 to 25 minutes, turning it once. The effect is virtually the same.

2 pounds eggplant (about 2 medium eggplants)
1 tablespoon salt
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2–3 tablespoons minced parsley or finely shredded fresh basil
Ground black pepper

1. Cut off and discard stem and bottom end of each eggplant. Do not peel. Cut eggplants crosswise into 3/4-inch slices. Lay slices out on a work surface, sprinkle tops with half the salt, and rub it in with your fingers. Turn eggplant slices over and repeat procedure with remaining salt. Place eggplant in a colander, set colander over bowl or in sink, and let eggplant stand for at least 1 1/2 hours, preferably 2 to 3.

2. Rinse eggplant under cold, running water, rubbing slices lightly in your hands. Shake colander to drain. Lay slices about an inch apart on triple thickness of paper towels; cover with another triple layer of towels. Using your palms, press each eggplant slice very firmly until it looks green and translucent and feels firm and leathery when pressed between fingertips. Repeat pressing process on fresh toweling if eggplant has not yet reached this stage. Repeat with remaining eggplant slices. (Can refrigerate up to 3 hours before cooking.)

3. Heat broiler. Mix oil, vinegar, and garlic in small cup. Arrange eggplant slices fairly close together on a baking sheet; brush tops with half of oil mixture. Turn slices over and brush with remaining oil mixture. Broil eggplant slices about 8 inches from heat source until tops turn mahogany brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Turn slices over; broil until other sides brown, an additional 6 to 8 minutes. Sprinkle eggplant with herbs and pepper, adjust seasonings, and serve.

BROILED EGGPLANT SLICES WITH TWO CHEESES

Serves 2 as a main course, 4–6 as a side dish

Follow Master Recipe for Broiled Eggplant Slices, then sprinkle cooked eggplant with a mixture of 3/4 cup (3 ounces) shredded fresh mozzarella cheese and 6 tablespoons (1 1/2 ounces) grated Parmesan cheese. Return eggplant to broiler until cheese melts and becomes a little crusty. Sprinkle with parsley or basil and serve, accompanied by marinara-style tomato sauce if desired.