Wrapping food is a wonderful way to seal in the flavours. Fish wrapped and steamed in this way has a fresh juiciness - Chinese restaurants keep fish alive in tanks until they are ready for cooking. Unwrap the fish at the table - it should be tender enough to eat with chopsticks. Serves 4-6.

Materials:
1 mullet, sea-bass, carp or trout, about 1.25 kg (2 1/2 lb)
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry
3 slices root ginger, shredded
3 spring onions, finely chopped
2 lotus leaves


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Preparation time: 15 minutes, plus marinating
Cooking time: 45 minutes, steaming or 50 minutes baking
Oven: 200 degree C, 400 degree F, Gas Mark 6, then 160 degree C, 325 degree F, Gas Mark 2


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2. Heat a wok, add the lard and stir until it melts. Add the onions, bacon and mushrooms and stir-fry for 1 1/2 minutes. Remove from the wok and drain on paper towels.

3. Remove the fish from the marinade and stuff with the onion mixture. Wrap carefully in the lotus leaves, then wrap a sheet of foil round to keep the leaves in place.

4. Steam vigorously for 45 minutes, or bake in a preheated oven for 25 minutes, then reduce heat and bake for another 25 minutes.

5. Serve the fish wrapped in lotus leaves and unwrap the fish at the table for everyone to help themselves.